A clothing label carries two distinct types of information: what the garment is made of, and how to care for it. Both are useful. Both are routinely misread or ignored. This is a plain-language guide to what each element means in practice.
Fabric Composition: What You're Actually Wearing
The fabric composition is listed as a percentage breakdown of the fibres in the garment. EU law requires this information on all clothing sold in the European Union.
Cotton — a natural plant fibre. Breathable, soft against skin, and washable. Conventional cotton and organic cotton are both labelled as "cotton" — organic certification (GOTS) is stated separately if present. Higher percentage cotton means more breathability and a softer hand feel.
Polyester — a synthetic fibre. Durable, wrinkle-resistant, and fast-drying, but less breathable than natural fibres and prone to retaining odour over time. A garment listed as "100% polyester" will feel different against skin than cotton at similar weights.
Elastane / Lycra / Spandex — all the same fibre, different brand names. Added in small percentages (2–5%) to provide stretch and shape recovery. Common in fitted garments. At higher percentages, it reduces the natural feel of the base fabric.
Modal — a semi-synthetic fibre produced from beech wood pulp. Softer than cotton, with a slight sheen and drape. Common in loungewear and t-shirts. Blended with cotton to improve softness.
Wool — a natural animal fibre. Temperature-regulating, naturally antibacterial, and durable. "Wool" on a label covers a range from coarse lambswool to fine merino. If softness against skin matters — for knitwear or baby garments — look for "merino" specified, not just "wool."
Viscose / Rayon — semi-synthetic fibres produced from plant cellulose. Soft and breathable, but significantly weaker when wet and prone to shrinking without careful washing. Garments with high viscose content typically require gentle or hand washing.
Acrylic — a synthetic fibre that mimics wool in appearance. Inexpensive, but does not breathe, pills rapidly, and does not perform as well as natural fibres for warmth or longevity.
Care Symbols: What Each One Means
EU garment care symbols are standardised. The five symbol categories cover washing, bleaching, drying, ironing, and professional cleaning.
Washing (tub symbol)
- Number inside the tub = maximum wash temperature in °C
- Single bar under the tub = gentle cycle
- Double bar = very gentle cycle
- Hand in the tub = hand wash only
- Crossed-out tub = do not wash
Bleaching (triangle)
- Plain triangle = bleaching permitted
- CL inside = chlorine bleach permitted
- Crossed-out triangle = do not bleach
Drying (square)
- Circle inside the square = tumble dry
- Dot inside the circle = low heat; two dots = medium heat
- Crossed-out tumble symbol = do not tumble dry
- Lines inside the square (no circle) = line dry; horizontal line = dry flat; curved line = drip dry
Ironing (iron symbol)
- One dot = low temperature (110°C max)
- Two dots = medium temperature (150°C max)
- Three dots = high temperature (200°C max)
- Crossed out = do not iron
Professional cleaning (circle)
- Letters inside the circle indicate the cleaning solvent type
- Crossed out = do not dry clean
Certifications: What They Actually Verify
Certifications are printed on labels or stated on product pages. The difference between a verified certification and a marketing claim is whether a third party has audited it.
GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) — covers the full supply chain from raw organic fibre to finished garment, including processing chemicals, dyes, and labour conditions. The most rigorous organic textile certification. If a garment states "organic cotton" without GOTS, the claim is unverified.
OEKO-TEX Standard 100 — tests the finished garment for over 100 harmful substances including formaldehyde, pesticides, heavy metals, and allergenic dyes. Does not cover the production process or labour conditions — only the finished product. The baseline certification for safe-to-wear clothing, particularly for children's garments and items worn close to skin.
Fair Wear Foundation — an independent organisation that audits labour conditions in garment factories. Membership requires the brand to work toward specific labour standards. It is a process certification, not a product certification.
Recycled Content (GRS — Global Recycled Standard) — verifies that the recycled content percentage stated on the label has been independently audited. A garment claiming recycled material content without GRS certification is making an unverified claim.
Country of Origin
EU law requires the country of origin to be stated on clothing labels for non-EU origin. For EU-made garments, it is stated voluntarily but is not legally required.
"Made in EU" on a label means the garment underwent its last substantial transformation within the European Union. It does not specify which country, or guarantee that all materials were sourced within the EU.
A specific country statement — "Made in Estonia," "Made in Portugal" — is more precise and carries more accountability than a regional statement.
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